Friday, February 24, 2012

Great Taste From Across the Pond



When you first meet Kevin McGarvey, owner of McGarvey’s Wee Pub, it doesn’t take long before he snares you with a Gaelic joke.
         “What’s a typical 7-course Irish meal?” he asks, trying to keep a straight face. “A six-pack and a potato.”
         Now, before you organize a protest against ethnic humor, remember that Kevin can lay claim to Irish jokes, being from one of Brunswick’s most prominent families of Irish descent. The McGarvey family goes back into the 19th century in Brunswick, when they opened one of the city’s first and finest furniture stores in 1886. His great-aunts were scions of culture in town, founding one of the first performing arts groups, writing and producing a historical pageant to celebrate the city’s centennial in 1956.
         Kevin opened McGarvey’s Wee Pub in downtown Brunswick in 2003. The pub moved to its current location in the new Glynn Isles shopping complex on Altama Avenue in 2008. The venture was started “just for fun” at first, but its popularity quickly established it as a local favorite with a dedicated following. A second location in St. Marys will open soon. As a past winner in several categories and 2012 participant in A Taste of Glynn, McGarvey team is ready to step up their game to compete again this March.
         What defines a true Irish pub? The cozy, warm, friendly feeling along with great food, Kevin noted, are key elements. In his yearly trips to Ireland, he travels the countryside sampling the food in every part of his ancestral land, collecting ideas and inspiration.
         “Pubs in Ireland are true community gathering places,” he explained. “The winters there are very cold, damp and dark. The sun comes up at 9:00 AM, and it starts to get dark around 3:00 PM, so people need someplace comfortable to socialize. I can’t count how many times I’ve looked at a typical street in any town in Ireland on a winter late afternoon to see people walking up a hill in the dark.  Then they open the door to the pub, where the light just glows out into the street.”
         “Pubs are not just places to get alcohol,” he added. “They are family establishments, where people bring their children and cheer on their favorite sports teams. They are places to get incredible food, too. You can go into the tiniest, most humble place in Ireland and get a truly fine meal for a very good price. The Irish are extremely proud of their food, with good reason. That friendly family atmosphere and great food are what I wanted to bring back home to Brunswick, and we are happy to have accomplished that.”
          Dan Black, (pictured, above with Pub staff, L-R, Tari Essig, Kathryn Jordan, and Myranda Batten) is the manager and culinary heart of the Wee Pub. He has been busy creating typical Irish dishes for the Golden Isles.
         “We have things that nobody else has,” he said. “Everything is home-made from scratch. There are specials every day, like Meat Loaf Monday. We have traditional hearty food like ‘bangers and mash,’ pot pies and shepherd’s pie. We also do a great home-made chili that is really popular, and we’ve just added some lighter fare to the menu.”
         So what secrets can chefs-at-home steal from the Wee Pub? Their winning ways with soups, in particular, are well known in the area and to the judges at A Taste of Glynn. Dan Black shared a few pointers for making soup that can win prizes with your family and guests.
         “The secret is preparing everything in one pot, using an aromatic base called ‘mirepoix.’ If you are making something other than a white soup, you start with celery, onions and carrots. If it were a white soup, you would leave off the carrots. You sear the ingredients for the base of your soup, maybe combined with a little bacon, stir up the brown bits and deglaze in one utensil.”
         “But the real difference in any dish is to use the recipe mainly as a guide,” he went on. “I would say that the recipe is 95% of the finished product. The other 5% is tasting and correcting the seasoning. Before you finish preparing a dish, close your eyes and taste. Give yourself a minute or two to decide what’s missing and add it in. Your own taste buds are more important than any recipe.”
         What about our universal questions for the 2012 A Taste of Glynn blog: favorite dinners and celebrity chefs? Kevin McGarvey admires Kevin Dundon, cookbook author and preeminent Irish chef. If he could order anything in the world for dinner, it wouldn’t be dinner- it would be a typical Irish breakfast.
         “We are talking about a huge meal here,” he pointed out. “You have three types of sausage, soda bread with plenty of pure Irish butter, sautéed mushrooms, the freshest eggs cooked to order, and what is called bacon over there–more like our ham. Plus lots of hot, hot tea. Perfect for warming you up on a cold morning.”
         Dan spends a great deal of his time in and around the kitchen, but if he had a chance to turn the tables and be the customer, he would dine on mussels diablo as an appetizer, lamb chops with potatoes au gratin and fresh asparagus. Dessert would be the Wee Pub’s bread pudding, the first-place winner in the dessert category at 2010 A Taste of Glynn. His favorite celebrity chef is hot-tempered Gordon Ramsey.
         “You’d really want to work hard to impress a guy like that,” Dan grinned. Apparently, Dan has impressed other television moguls already. He is a featured candidate for finding true love in the upcoming “Lovetown” series produced by the Oprah Winfrey Network. Will love conquer all? It’s very likely that it can all on its own, but being able to whip up a deep-dish chicken pot pie with tender veggies and a melt-in-your-mouth flakey crust couldn’t hurt, either.
         Be sure to stop by the booth for McGarvey’s Wee Pub at this year’s A Taste of Glynn on March 25, 2012, from 5-8 pm. at the King and Prince Beach and Golf Resort. Tickets are available at the King and Prince, and SunTrust Bank locations on Demere Road and Sea Island Road on St. Simons. In Brunswick, purchase tickets at LaiLai’s, Hattie’s Books, color me happy and Moore Stephens Tiller LLC. Or call the Glynn Community Crisis Center at 264-1348.

Photo by Lindy Thompson, Golden Isles Photography
          

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