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| (L-R) Diane and Steven West, Jackie Baxley, Barbara Poppwell and Estephan Jackson of Baby Mack's |
When you walk into Baby Mack’s on New Jesup Highway in Brunswick,
Georgia, it only takes an instant to realize you are in the presence of
barbeque royalty. Owners Steven and Diane West are heirs to the food dynasty
started 34 years ago by Diane’s parents, Mack and June Wilson, at the legendary
local drive-in, Twin Oaks Barbeque. When her family took over the restaurant, it
quickly grew so popular that the cash registers rang up ten times the daily business,
and they were forced to add a dining room to accommodate all the customers. For
those not fortunate enough to grow up in the Golden Isles of Georgia, Twin Oaks
was the place to satisfy your craving
for fork- tender pork or beef barbeque, Brunswick stew and hand-cut, battered French
fries that nearly defied description.
Just
for fun, seek out some natives of Glynn County who are old enough to remember
Twin Oaks back in the 70s and 80s, and watch their eyes mist over when you
mention the fries. All concerns for calories and those other bothersome issues
disappeared when you bit into a battered fry, with its crunchy crisp outer
shell and the indescribably tender fluffy inside. If you are too young or
far-flung to have those treasured memories, you’ll be glad to know that Diane,
her husband and her brothers kept the faith–and the recipes– and stayed in the
business. They settled into Baby Mack’s, their current location, in December 2011.
They are, once again, serving up their barbeque specialties, sinfully delicious
desserts and those sublime fries.
What’s
the family secret? More than a specific recipe, Diane says, it is a philosophy
of consistency, simplicity and insistence on freshness. Having grown up in the restaurant
business, she observed her parents using meticulous care selecting and
preparing the meats for the famous barbeque, and developing a close
relationship with the food vendors who understood their high standards. She has
kept the same vendors going forward with her own business, and feels that is
part of the reason she and Steven have been so successful.
“We’ve
kept everything the same,” she noted. “We start with the best quality fresh
meats and other ingredients, and we make everything we serve from scratch every
day. We don’t use a lot of spicy rubs and all that fancy stuff on our meats. We
cook them all day long and use a little of our own sauce. The true flavor of the
meat comes through that way. You really don’t need anything else.”
Today,
Diane, her husband and her extended family run Baby Mack’s. Everyone
specializes in a particular aspect of the operation, from barbeque to bakery.
“It
really is like a baby,” she laughed. “You
can’t leave it on its own! We have so many family members working with us. The rest
of our employees have been with us for so many years that I think they’re
family, too. We must be doing something right, because we sell out of food
every day.”
Don’t
worry about missing a chance to sample Baby Mack’s fabulous fare at A Taste of
Glynn this year. Diane, Steven and their team will be ready for you with their
famous slow-cooked barbeque, and key lime cake, a dessert so rich and unique
that even outgoing, bubbly Diane failed to find words to describe it. If you’ve
ever fought over purchasing one of her cakes at the veterans’ benefit sales
through American Legion, here’s your chance to try it. Deciding whether the
barbeque or the cake deserves your vote for The People’s Choice Award will be
tough, but we think you’re up for the challenge.
Join
over 1,000 other barbeque and cake lovers at this year’s A Taste of Glynn on March 25, from 5 to 8 pm. at the King and Prince Beach
& Golf Resort. New this year: the Celebrity Chefs Choice Award, judged by
Georgia Governor’s Mansion Executive Chef, Holly Chute. Tickets are available
at the King and Prince, and SunTrust Bank locations on Demere Road and Sea
Island Road, Palmer’s Village Café and Doug’s Bar & Grill on St. Simons. In
Brunswick, purchase tickets at LaiLai’s, Hattie’s Books, color me happy, Zachry’s
Seafood and Steak, Baby Mack’s and Moore Stephens Tiller LLC. Or call the Glynn
Community Crisis Center at 264-1348.
Photo by Lindy Thompson, Golden Isles Photography
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