Monday, March 19, 2012

It's the real thing


(L-R) Efrain, Ignacio and Jorge Franco of Nacho's Mexican Restaurant & Cantina

             If you want authentic Mexican cuisine, you don’t have to cross the border, just the Causeway to St. Simons Island. Head to 1600 Frederica Road and look for Nacho’s Mexican Restaurant & Cantina to taste the real flavors of Mexico.
            Brothers Efrain, Ignacio (nicknamed Nacho) and Jorge Franco have spent their careers in the restaurant business. Their customers recently persuaded them to move a previous establishment to St. Simons, which proved to be a good idea. A packed house every night is the proof. 
            “We have a lot of loyal customers who live on St. Simons who travel to Mexico regularly on business,” Ignacio explained. “They had enjoyed real Mexican food the way it is supposed to be, and they encouraged us to move closer, on the Island.”
            Just what is real Mexican food? The brothers pondered that question, but had to explain the origins of the genre first.
            “Mexico is a collection of ancient cultures,” Efrain explained. “And there is a huge variety from one part to another. We are from Mexico City, in the central region, where you will not find burritos, for example. Those are actually specialties of another part of the country. The specific dishes may vary according to the region, but the habits of cooking are much the same everywhere. One rule you cannot break is that everything must be very fresh, every day. No shortcuts.”
            Suppliers for the new restaurant learned that lesson the hard way with their first delivery. When he ordered tomatoes, Ignacio assumed that he would receive fresh, plump, ripe tomatoes. To his dismay, the company sent canned tomatoes instead.
            Canned? Canned tomatoes?” he shook his head in disbelief. “For my special salsas? Never!”
            Ignacio is particular about his salsa. Three basic varieties are green, chipotle and spicy salsa. There are no pre-made ingredients, but beyond that fact, he isn’t sharing his secrets. The only things he’ll tell you are that they are delicious, made from scratch and you will love at least one of them, no matter how your tastes run. Even if you don’t like to “bring the heat.”
            “We learned to cook in California,” he said. “So we developed a sort of fusion of authentic Mexican food for American tastes. All of us grew up eating spicier food, but here, that’s too hot for many people. So, we adjust to each person’s wishes. At the restaurant, we’ll ask when you order–how spicy do you want it? We can make our dishes to suit anybody.”
            Nacho’s Mexican Restaurant & Cantina is actually three establishments in one, Jorge noted. “In Mexico, you will see taquerias, which are places that specialize in many different types of tacos. There are restaurantes, which offer a wider variety of foods. And then there are cantinas, or bars. We blend all three into one, so you can get anything you like here.”
            In Mexico, after a good meal, it is customary to follow with a small portion of tequila as an aid to digestion, Jorge added. Again, the drink comes in a wide regional range of blends and flavor influences. Nacho’s cantina has a full selection available, from the popular mezcales, to the elite, upscale Don Julio 1942, considered to be one of the finest tequilas ever made.
            If the busy Franco brothers got a chance to sit down and order their favorite dinner, what would be on the menu? Ignacio would order his favorite chicken Diablo, extra hot and spicy, while Efrain would ask for chile rellenos, which are poblano peppers stuffed with cheese, dipped in an egg wash, fried and covered with ranchero sauce. Both would order flan, a creamy custard dish, for dessert. Jorge, however, would go for tacos.  Or dessert, he would forego the traditional flan for another favorite.
            “I’ll take Don Julio 1942,” he grinned.
            The brothers are looking forward to their competition in the International category of A Taste of Glynn, and hope this year will bring them another win to follow an earlier first place prize in 2005. A Taste of Glynn is on March 25, from 5 to 8 pm. at the King and Prince Beach & Golf Resort. Tickets are available at the King and Prince, and SunTrust Bank locations on Demere Road and Sea Island Road, Palmer’s Village Café and Doug’s Bar & Grill on St. Simons. In Brunswick, purchase tickets at LaiLai’s, Hattie’s Books, color me happy, Zachry’s Seafood and Steak, Baby Mack’s and Moore Stephens Tiller LLC. Or call the Glynn Community Crisis Center at 264-1348.

Photo by Lindy Thompson, Golden Isles Photography


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